Needle felting is a craft that turns wool into beautiful, fun, and quirky art using a barbed needle. Wool is probably the most confusing aspect, otherwise it spretty straight forward. My What needle felting wool do I need? Complete guide will help you on making the best choices for your project, and, whilst I cant claim this to be a definitive guide, it is crafted from my extensive experience of needle felting since , across various wool types and techniques. Ive devoted considerable time and expertise to this guide, aiming to simplify your needle felting journey.
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Complete guide to needle felting woolYou can learn more about me and my handmade business on the ABOUT page of my WEBSITE as well as a great range of inspiring PATTERNS. At the end of this post, Ive also included a helpful list of links to tutorials, a few recommended books, and a carefully crafted table guide for needle felting wool that you wont want to miss, all based on my own experience. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or me at .
Needle felting is a popular form of crafting that involves matting, condensing, and shaping wool fibers into various shapes using a specialized barbed needle. As you poke the fibers with the needle, they tangle and become denser, forming a firm and textured material. This technique allows for great creativity, making it a favorite among crafters looking to make everything from simple flat designs to intricate three-dimensional figures.
Learn how to needle felt in The Felt HubChoosing the right type of wool is crucial for needle felting. Each type has different properties that can affect the ease of felting and the final look of your project.
Not all needle felting wool is created equal and for anyone new to needle felting it can be frustratingly confusing. However, all you need is one or two good needle felting wools in your craft box to create a multitude of wonderful needle felting projects. This guide will take away all the painful confusion so you can get started instead of ruminating for hours over which wool is best for needle felting. I have kept it simple and tried to answer the most frequently asked questions. At the bottom of the post you will find my easy guide to wool and my personal favourites. You will see a lot of British wool on the list because, well I live in Britain so it makes sense to use what we have around us. If any shops or books are mentioned it is because I love their products and I highly recommend them. I am not affiliated to them in any way.
Worldwide, it is estimated there are distinct sheep breeds and around 60 of those are in Britain alone, more than anywhere else in the world. No wonder its confusing! Read about the history of British wool HERE
Herdwick sheep on the Cumbrian FellsShort answer is no but most wool can be wet felted, or incorporated into wet felting. You will find my handy guide to needle felting wool at the bottom of this page.
Core wool means different things to different people and that is where most of the confusion lies. Put simply, it just means what you use for the centre or bulk of your project and it can be any medium/coarse wool. If your top layer is going to be a different colour or you are using a fine wool; Merino Corriedale or similar. Core wool can be used to needle felt your basic shape and then covered with dyed wool. However, for many projects, it isnt necessary and if I am making a hare or a sheep then the whole thing will be made from natural Jacob, Shetland or Swaledale tops which is coarse and felts really easily.
Coarse British wool tops are ideal for needle felted animalsI will then add a few finishing touches and detail with a different colour wool, un-dyed where possible as I like the earthy, natural finish. Where a different core wool is really useful is when you are creating life sized animals, or using a more expensive dyed wool as your top colour for birds, realistic animals, Christmas baubles, fruit, dragons, Easter eggs, gnome hats etc. These types of projects would be much easier to needle felt with a core of coarse wool and then covered with a top layer of bright Shetland, Corriedale or Merino.
Short answer is no. Core just means the inside of your project and, because most of my critters are small (usually no bigger than 15-20cm), I just use the same wool inside and out. Its much less of a faff and it stops the wool, from the different colour core, poking through the top layer. My preference is natural, medium to coarse wool top (sometimes called roving) for most of my animal projects and needle felting kits and I usually encourage new felters to do the same, especially if they are going for a firm shape. For example, if I am making a grey hare or grey sheep then I will use my grey Jacob wool top (or similar) throughout only adding different wool for surface detail and contrast. Core wool is best used for realistic dogs, cats or other animals; for finer top coat of Corriedale or Merino where a different colour or blend of colours is required. Also, larger pieces such as life size hares or other animals would be more cost effective with a cheap core wool to build the bulk of your project. Shetland carded batts are a good option or a loose core. Visit tutorial HERE or watch the short VIDEO TUTORIAL
Brown woodland hare created using Shetland Moorit wool top no core White Jacob top and carded batt used for surface details and whiskersSheep body using just grey Jacob wool top no coreThere is actually another type of core wool that is that is used almost like a toy stuffing, made up of shorter, lumpy wool fibres. It is perfect for soft sculpture and bigger rounder shapes and is ideal for wrapping wool batting around to create pumpkins, garden bases , mushroom tops, bee hives and all manner of soft sculpture where you want a particular look. They can be created in no time, are super simple and really effective. It can also be used for spinning and wrapping around a wire frame, although carded slivers may work better for some armature projects.
Visit tutorial HERE or watch the short VIDEO TUTORIAL
Create a simple soft shape from core wool takes less than 5 minutes and wrap the carded batt around it<br>Shroom houses with a soft core garden base and roof. House is natural white Jacob top which needed to be much firmer.
WATCH VIDEO TUTORIAL; working with soft core wool.
Life size Snowshoe Hare has a soft core of Shetland carded wool batts.
There is no right or wrong answer and it all depends on the wool you are using , what you are making and personal preference. The biggest problem is that a lot of people start their needle felting journey with Merino wool which is just not suitable. Its is too fine, doesnt felt easily and makes the whole project hard work more on Merino below then, thinking that all wool tops are the same they will change to carded wool (also great for needle felting), or give up on needle felting altogether, which makes me very sad.
A coarse wool top ( sometimes called roving) is a joy to work with, felts up quickly and easily and is really cost effective. I use it for almost all of my needle felted animals and in the majority of my needle felting kits. I have been doing this for nearly seven years and have yet to find anything better for my needs. My HANDY GUIDE TO WOOL TOPS is further down the page.
Grey Jacob and Shetland Moorit wool both give a beautiful earthy, natural finish to needle felted animals and no need for a separate core wool.
Hares made from Grey Jacob top and Shetland Moorit topCarded wool is also great for needle felting and carded slivers (long legths) are ideal for working around a wire frame where the finished project tends to be much softer. Carded wool sheets (batting) are also perfect for wrapping around a core base to create lovely soft sculpture like the fox and mouse shown below, pumpkins, gnomes and larger life size pieces. However, I dont use full wire frames very much and favour wool tops for most of my projects. The fox and mouse below were both created using a wire frame (armature) using carded batting sheets. Mouse is grey Jacob batting and fox is my own blend of Corriedale batting and wool top.
Pumpkins made using a lumpy core wool and covered with carded batting sheets. Traditional and Winter Wonderland Pumpkin needle felting kits are on the WEBSITE
Its only nine minutes long and explains the different types of wool (including core wool) and how I like to use them.
Same wool, different processes. Wool tops are made in long lengths (usually around the thickness of your wrist), quite dense with the fibres brushed in the same direction. Carded wool fibres are much shorter and brushed in lots of different directions, resulting in a much loftier wool. Click HERE for the wool shop.
Natural wool topsCarded sliversNot for three dimensional projects or anything with a lot of bulk that needs to be firmly felted. Merino is a beautiful wool, when used for the right application especially wet felting, top coats, long animal fur and pictures but I have lost count of new felters that have contacted me asking why their needle felting project isnt felting properly or is full of needle marks and is taking an age to shape. I can almost guarantee that they are using Merino or have started with a needle felting kit that uses Merino. It saddens me when this happens because it is really disheartening to start a new craft, often with much trepidation, and not be able to complete it. It stops many new would be crafters in their tracks because they think their lack of know how is to blame. Such a confidence shaker and definitely a case of Its not you its the wool and I am at a bit of a loss as to why Merino is used in many needle felting kits?
I am often asked about Merino and the practice of mulesing. My advice is to check that any Merino you purchase is from a country that doesnt practice sheep mulesing; a horrible and painful practice used to control fly strike. The fly species that harms sheep only exists in Australia and New Zealand so Merino from non-mulesed sheep is easy to get hold of. Notably South America, South Africa and Spain. My rule is if a supplier doesnt know where their Merino is from then I dont buy from them.
Curly locks can be used for almost any project, to add texture and interest. Teesdale and Wensleydale are really popular and come in a raft of colours. You can also make your own out of knitting yarn and I have created a short video HERE on how to create your own. I must admit I am a bit of a curly locks hoarder and I like to open the drawers and just admire my stash; I know Im not the only one who does this There are lots of fabulous lock sellers online and I have popped a few of my faves below. Or, why not make your own with simple wool yarn. Click HERE for video tutorial.
If you want to create needle felted (or wet felted) pictures then pre-felt is the perfect base. Pre-felt is partially felted sheets of wool which are lightly carded and felted. It is stretchy and pliable and makes a great base for wet felted and needle felted pictures, allowing you to lay out and layer all your fibres on the top before wet felting or needle felting. You can make your own by wet felting a couple of layers of wool top or carded wool but is is also available to purchase online. My favourite is natural Shetland pre-felt which I add to my picture needle felting kits and use for my own projects. You can find it in my wool shop.
Needle felted onto 25cm pre feltSimple needle felted picture on Shetland pre feltThe possibilities for needle felted pictures are endless I have added pearl beads and French knots to this one called Asleep Under The Cherry TreeToo fine for bulky needle felting but, like Merino, good for blending with a coarser wool for different textures, wet felting and top coats.
Anything that works, including Merino. My Herdwick sheep, naturally have a long coat of Herdwick but for dogs and cats Merino and Corriedale is good. I spray mine with hairspray to keep everything in place. Some say it can discolour white wool, over time, but I have never found it to be an issue. CLICK FOR TUTORIAL
It makes sense, wherever possible, to buy local or from the country you are in. The carbon foot print is reduced, you are supporting your community and the economy, and traceability is much easier. Much of our wool is from animals that are used for their wool and meat but that doesnt mean that they are not cared for and, for the overwhelming majority of farmers, animal welfare is a top priority. We do live in an imperfect world so there will always be rotten apples in the barrel. All my wool suppliers are British, family run businesses (some large some small) and I have never had a question on traceability or ethical farming go unanswered.
In global terms, UK sheep farms are small, having on average approximately 350 sheep. UK sheep are raised naturally outdoors on pasture. As a result, the scale and method of UK lamb production is such that it is not considered an intensive farming activity by animal welfare campaigning bodies.
Sheep are required to be shorn of their wool once a year for their own comfort and health. Hence, wool is a naturally occurring by-product. Every year British Wool puts over 800 people in all parts of the UK through our two day shearing training courses that are tailored to their existing level of experience and skill. It goes without saying that shearing in accordance with best practice industry standards ensures that the process is stress free for the animal (as well as maximising the value of producers wool). Please visit our Shearing pages for further information.
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If you want to inject some colour into your projects then Shetland and Corriedale (a Merino Lincoln cross) are my favourites but there is a huge range available and lately I have been looking for natural plant dyed wool which is not an easy task. These two dyed wools are ideal for any project that needs colour, be it landscapes, brightly coloured Christmas decorations or a vibrant topcoat. You can also blend colours to create different effects using your hands or a blending brush. If you dont have wool blending brushes, dog slicker brushes work really well. Dyed wool and bundles are available HERE
Corriedale and Shetland pastelsCorriedale and Shetland pumpkin spiceYou can but its a struggle and a chore and the result isnt nearly as good as wool. Plant fibres, like bamboo, dont felt well because the fibres are much smoother, whereas wool has tiny scales that interlock when rubbed, agitated or compressed with a felting needle. A few years ago I put together a test vegetarian needle felting kit, using only plant fibres, bamboo mostly. I then sent them out to a few customers for testing and each said that it was really difficult to work with and the end result was quite poor. Although plant fibres alone may not needle felt well they are still lovely to use for many other projects, especially when mixed with wool or added to finished wool projects. Bamboo, and especially silk tops add a lovely luxurious texture, contrast and sheen to your project. I use a lot of silk in needle felted pictures, on pumpkins and gnome beards and hats.
You can and availability is increasing. Vegetarian wool, also called slaughter free wool, means that the when the animal dies it is not sent to slaughter and does not end up in the food chain. I love the organic, vegetarian wool from the Doulton Border Leicester flock. It is a lovely coarse British breed wool that felts beautifully. Ellie refers to them as sheep that live to grow old and even has a seperate area for her OAP sheep. You can find her on ETSY or via her WEBSITE and she also sells the most gorgeous vegetarian knitting yarn.
Definitely. The more you needle felt the more you are breaking down the wool fibres. If you over felt, by repeatedly poking the wool in the same spot for too long, the fibres will eventually break down and start to go soft. If this happens it is best to start again with fresh wool.
Only four things are needed and you are good to go;
This chart is so useful and if you are ever unsure whether a wool is suitable for needle felting then just look at the micron count. This is the measurement used to determine how fine or coarse the wool is. The lower the micron number the finer the wool. For example: Jacob is 33-35 microns coarse and perfect for needle felting. Whereas Merino is 23 microns, fine and not so good. Most of my animal needle felting kits use Jacob, Shetland or Swaledale. Of course, as you become more confident, you will develop your own preferences and the best way is to try a few yourself. Here are some of the most popular (although not exclusively) in a handy chart.
My favourites *
WOOLORIGINTEXTUREMICRONGOOD FOR NEEDLE FELTINGJacob *EnglandCoarse25-35Yes. Earthy finishShetland*ScotlandMedium/If you are new to needle felting and handling wool you probably wont be able to tell. Its easy for me as I have been handling wool for a long time and can even name some of the sheep breeds by running the wool through my hands. If you are finding it difficult to needle felt, and it feels smooth and silky, the chances are it is a Merino or other fine wool with a low micron count.
This is just a guide to impart some of the knowledge I have gained since but I hope it helps you in your needle felting journey. Just experiment and have fun because there really is no right and wrong. Many people start with a needle felting kit which usually has everything you need to complete your first project. Just try not to start with one that uses Merino as it will make the learning curve harder.
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While I only recommend products Ive personally used and believe in, I must disclose that some links may be affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission. However, not all links are affiliate; some direct to small businesses Ive personally endorsed. Your trust is vital to me, and I prioritise honesty in all recommendations.
The Field Guide To Fleece Deborah Robson and Carol Ekarius
British Sheep Breeds Susannah Robin Parkin
Complete Photo Guide To Felting Ruth Lane
Little Felted Animals Marie Noelle Horvath
Beginners Guide To Needle Felting Susanna Wallis
A Masterclass In Needle Felting Dogs Cindy-Lou Thompson
Quick Guide To Felting NeedlesCopyright Lincolnshire Fenn Crafts
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Have you ever wondered what the difference is between 100% wool felt, wool blend felt and craft, other than price?! On first glance, you might not thing there's much of a difference but there is! Heres the low down find out the characteristics of these fabrics and which type is best for your crafts.
What is felt?
Felt is a non-woven material made by pressing and rolling fibres together. Its thought to be one of the first fabrics made by man, with the earliest pieces dating back to 700 BC. Because its made without a loom it could be produced easily from wool. Its strong and water repellant so was used to make clothing, saddles and tents. Its still a very important fabric today, with many industrial uses in manufacturing and architecture, and its also hugely popular in crafting because its such a versatile, easy-to-use fabric.
Felt can be made by hand (using wet felting and needle felting) but on a commercial scale its usually done with machinery. If you like the TV programme Inside the Factory you might enjoy a read of this!
The fibres used to make felt can be natural like wool or bamboo, or synthetic like petroleum-based acrylic or wood-pulp based rayon. All of these fibres produce a felted fabric which wont fray at the edges, so no hemming is required. However, the different fibres also give the felt fabric different properties and uses. Lets look at these:
100% wool felt is made of pure wool only. Confusingly, wool blend felts are often called wool felt but they usually have less than 40% wool in them (more on that below!). 100% wool felt usually contains merino wool, which is super soft and durable. Because it comes from a renewable source, wool is a sustainable product and will biodegrade. Its important to check when buying this type felt that the wool is museling-free (a cruel practice sometimes used by sheep farmers). Ours is!
Jiatong supply professional and honest service.
100% wool felt is evenly thick and smooth with a matt appearance. It cuts without leaving fuzzies and it doesnt tend to pill (bobble) when rubbed so its hard wearing.
This felt is dense so holds stitches well without being stretched out of shape, unlike a wool blend or acrylic felts, which tend to be thinner and less dense.
100% wool felt is washable. Just like your favourite woolly jumper, its best to do this delicately with a cool hand wash. There can be around 5% shrinkage on washing so if you are making anything that will be washed its a good idea to pre-shrink the felt before crafting with it. 100% wool felt holds dyes really well but some colours are not fast so its best to wash them separately if you need to. 100% wool felt can be ironed on a wool setting.
Because of the natural oils present in 100% wool felt it is water repellant so seems to stay clean for longer. Its also naturally fire-resistant (the best test for wool felt to set fire to it if it only smolders and doesnt catch fire its wool!). The natural oils in wool also give this felt antibacterial properties.
Because its lovely to cut, stitch and stays smooth over time, 100% wool felt is a favourite amongst stitchers and toy makers because it has an heirloom quality. It is however the most expensive option and not widely available.
This is often called wool felt but it usually has no more than 25-40% wool in it, with the rest of the fabric made up of man-made fibres such as rayon (viscose) or acrylic. This felt is thinner and less dense than 100% wool felt but is usually more durable than a craft felt. It has a tendency to go bobbly and stretch out of shape with use and, because of the synthetic fibres, some have a shine to them. This felt is smooth and holds stitches nicely. They do come in a huge range of colours and are less expensive than a 100% wool felt so are great when you are producing a large scale project, for making things that wont get much wear or for childrens crafting. As it stretches easily, wool blend felt can be useful for felt flower making, if you want a leaf or petal to have a curled shape.
This is the cheapest felt, often found in craft shops and schools. Its made of 100% man-made fibres acrylic, polyester, rayon or viscose. There are some more environmentally conscious choices now too you can get felt made from a fibre produced from recycled plastic bottles or bamboo (bamboo is fast growing an doesnt need chemical fertilizers so its a more sustainable choice).
The one thing these felts have in common is that they are inexpensive however they tend to vary a lot depending on what type of fibre they are made from. It can be quite thin (sometimes you can see light coming through it) or very stiff. It usually has a plasticy shine to it and its easy to stretch out of shape. If you stitch onto it, the threads dont sink into the fabric so they look loose.
This type of felt is great for getting young kids into crafting just expect their creations to stand the test of time! It can also be handy if you want to test out a design before upgrading to a better quality felt. If you do use this felt, choose carefully dont pick the stiff type of craft felt if you are planning to make a stuffed toy. However, if you need a fabric with a bit of structure, the stiffer felts can be a great option. Its also perfect for vegans.
This image shows how seams look with different types of felt. You can see that because 100% wool felt is more dense than the other types of felt, the stiches don't pucker the seam. You can also see when you look closely that the wool blend felt and craft felt have a slight sheen to them.
100% wool felt
Wool blend
Craft Felt
Composition
100% wool
20-40% wool
60-80% acrylic or rayon
0% (bamboo, plastic bottles, acrylic, rayon)
Fraying
No
No
No
Stretching
Dense so doesnt stretch out of shape.
Seams hold up well.
Not as dense, can be stretched a bit.
Seams hold up relatively well.
Thin and very prone to stretching out of shape
Seams may stretch and tear.
Water repellant
Yes
A little
No
Safety
Flame retardant
Will catch fire but then go out
Flammable
Environmental impact
Sustainable
Sustainable (depending on composition)
Non-biodegradable, depending on composition
Washable
Yes (but expect some shrinkage)
Yes (but expect some shrinkage)
Yes and wont shrink
Texture and appearance
Smooth and soft.
Matt appearance
Smooth, soft, feels slightly squeaky.
Slight sheen
Often fuzzy or hard, depending on type.
Sheen
Colours
Lots (but no very bright white as the heavy bleaching would damage the wool)
Huge selection, including bright white
Not so many, but includes a bright white
Sustainable
Yes, wool is a renewable source
If its made of rayon
Not always
Hold stitches
Really well
Ok
Not so well
Pills (bobbles)
Unlikely
Somewhat likely
Very likely
Price
£££
££
£
There are so many types of felt to choose from these days - each works well depending on your aims and your budget. It's worth spending a little time when you start your next project to be sure that you are using the right type to give you the finished result you're looking for.
For more Wool Feltinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.